Reviews

[Note: All pre-release reviews have come from fellow independant prefumers and colleagues during an anonymous group fragrance review; all newer reviews will be attributed to the author unless specified otherwise.]


MARGINALIA:

--"It is remarkable the degree to which this perfume achieves what it's set out to do. This is actually much more photorealistic and authentic to an old book, it's so beautiful!" - Lola, @thehermeshippie

--“Marginalia is really dark academia in a bottle, but even the scarier kind where it’s under-funded academia. Now, this has a very wonderful paper accord that last a long time, and to my immense joy, is NOT based on orris (I love that)! It’s got this earth, leathery feeling, and the leather dries down slightly synthetically, into a Naughahyde chair accord, and it really feels like you’re sitting in a dusty old library, sitting in a cracked chair, and you can even feel just a little bit of that twinge in your nose as a warm bulb flickers near by. It's the best library scent I've come across so far!" - Yoshi, @jpjsound

--"Where another popular scent smells like burning dust, this one is dust in the air. It's the old glue of the book. It's the chair you're sitting in. I find it a pleasure to wear - something accessible meant to be enjoyed as much as appreciated imo!" - Wren, @wren.rouge

--"This is the scent of a fantasy library, perfectly capturing light warmed dust settling onto ink stamped pages and vellum in immaculate nostalgia. Holding these heavy old tomes is a binding of soft worn sueded leather, supple and encompassing the entire composition as you wear it. There are spiced and sweet facets, but nothing that lifts above the warm cozy literary vibes. Stunning and one of my favorite launches of 2024." - Josh, @GothFragranceBestie

--"This is fantastic. The first spray was the equivalent to the fantasy trope of opening an old, mysterious book and being instantly transported to another world." - Kelsie

--"On paper, the scent opens with a rubbery and smoky character, featuring almond and cherry nuances with a powdery touch and sweet, polished wood. There’s also a hint of earthy beetroot. In 30 minutes, it transitions to a dry, woody, and slightly sweet aroma, accompanied by a terpenic and cool ‘hissing’ effect. Two hours later, the fragrance evolves into a green woody, and terpenic profile with a cold, cistus-like effect. I also catch a mineralic and earthy undertone to it. Three hours in, it maintains its terpenic, green, and woody essence. Finally, five hours after spraying, the scent is still detectable on the blotter, leaving a balsamic and slightly mossy drydown.

On skin, the fragrance starts off more animalic, balsamic, and woodier compared to the blotter. As it develops, it becomes sweeter and less terpenic, sitting warmer on the skin. The scent maintains a balsamic, sweet, and woody profile, with a fatty undertone. Two hours after spraying, it starts to fade slowly. Three hours in, it leaves a faint sweet balsamic drydown before disappearing completely around the fifth hour.

It makes me feel intrigued, calm and grounded. Makes me feel like I’m in a historic make-up room (or a theatre?) full of powders, wigs, costumes in chiffon and taffeta and richly decorated wooden furniture. It has calming effect"

--"This scent takes me to an attic. The fragrance always opens with moldy geosmin, suggesting to turn back. Staying with it, the scent warms like sunlight and dust. In the dry down, the faint vinyl and leather come forward, and I could imagine being enveloped by an old chair."

--"Takes me to a dirty cellar or a very old castle in the Middle Ages with hard antique furniture."

--"Green leather and rich smelling. I'm picturing a grand interior, maybe inside a Bentley. There's a heat too, mineral and hot like metal. I did randomly write down "Air Raid bunker" as it reminded me of a WW2 bunker I once visited, there's something old about it (but in a good way)!"

--"I had a very emotional reaction to this scent. I was surprised how raw and wounded it made me feel. I mean this in the best possible way. This is a perfume to wear when you go to wage war on your enemies and exact revenge for what they have taken from you."

--"...a delicious fragrance!" - Alan, @alancummingreally


HUMIDORS OF PERCEPTION:

--“…for fans of dry florals and whacky tobaki. To my nose, those florals are osmanthus, violet and geranium, and this dries down into a leather scent, and it really does evoke a nicely, well-used humidor.” - Yoshi, @jpjsound

--"Lizard King Ascension indeed. This perfume is a wild ride from start to finish, with complex layers of tobacco and stone fruit, chocolate and florals- and something distinctly green and bell peppery throughout. Unusual and unique, but wholly wearable and fun." - Josh, @GothFragranceBestie

--"This smells exactly like hot rocks. I imagine being outside and walking through an ancient dilapidated village. The stone buildings are crumbling and the sun is beating down, full force, warming the rock. The earth has taken over and plants are weaved between the ruins. ...it brings me straight back to when I was in Pompeii. I think this scent is brilliant and I'll be wearing it for sure." - Kelsie

--"Humidors of Perception starts off with a sweet aroma of dark chocolate that is not too sweet or overpowering. 10-15 minutes into the opening, the chocolate fades and is replaced with a semi sweet pipe tobacco with a backdrop of leathery accents. I appreciate that off my skin the tobacco isn't overly smoky and blends really well with the leather making a tangy/spicy combo.

Overall, Humidors of Perception accurately depicts the feel of smoking a cigar in a lounge on a leather sofa. It's unique enough amongst the other tobaccos I have that I would add a full bottle to my collection down the line." - Habeeb, @thescentsire

--"On paper, starting at 9:45h, the scent opens with a leathery yet green note, reminiscent of a ‘tamed IBQ’—characteristic yet smooth leather. By 10:10h, it evolves into a smoky leather with a touch of sweetness, possibly lifted by aldehydes. At 10:45h, the scent develops a boozy sweetness with slight powdery floral notes. By 11:20h, it transitions into a mix of leather and amber, perhaps labdanum is present. At 12:55h, the leather is still prominent with balsamic and dry facets. Finally, by 16:50h, it settles into a smoky, roasted, woody, and yes - leathery -dry down.

On skin, the opening is brighter and greener on my skin with fruity, balsamic facets in a grapefruit/galbanum direction. In about 10 minutes the leather starts to appear more prominently. About an hour later, the leather notes blend smoothly with an ambery whisper in the background gently claiming more space with time (60min later) and developing a powdery effect. Finally, it settles into a soft leathery and slightly woody dry-down.

Makes me feel confident, expressive, assertive, elegant. It is a beautiful balance of IBQ. It makes me feel grounded and confident

PS: I put it on at a wedding event and few people asked me what I’m wearing."

--"Sensual fragrance! The opening is intense and spicy, and it woke up my senses. I couldn't stop sniffing my wrist and telling my partner to smell me. The mid is softer and cuddlier: afterglow and pillowtalk vibes. The base, which smells to me like sandalwood, is as addictive as the opening. It's not dry like some woody bases; it's sweet (maybe some vanilla?). I want a full bottle of this. I want to try layering it with everything else I own to see what happens. I want to bathe in it."

--"A cologne with notes of honey, vetiver, and barbeque. The air inside reminds me of a the inside of a Ken Doll. Something nostalgic and powdery. Dries to something soft and sweet, like a 1970’s backseat."

--"There is a vintage smell to this but it doesn't smell "old". I'm not sure of the notes, I occasionally get a slight chocolate smell but it doesn't smell like it's meant for eating. It's giving me hippy vibes so maybe there's some patchouli in there? It's a really nice fragrance."

--"This took me to a cigar club with gentlemen at the end. Turmeric, a bit of oud, fresh vegetation and sweat up top. I get the tobacco and a sweet cigar box. The top notes here don’t do the mid notes justice. The mid is a sweet musky joy. This is drying down beautifully to a sweet musk stick aroma like an empty cigar box. The turmeric note is still detectable to me in the dry down and a little distracting. Later, the dry down is just gorgeous (at 24 hours)."

--"In the green light of morning, I kneel beside the ancient log, its surface cool against my palm. With a swift motion, I split it open, revealing the vibrant, moist heart within. The wood glistens with life, as if it yearns to sink new roots deep into the fragrant earth."

MUSHMALLOW:

--"If I were [a] bog witch, I'd make Mushmallow by CLST Perfumes my signature scent. It's a savory/sweet gourmand. It seems unusual, and it is, but it's also very wearable. Mushmallow has the damp, earthy quality of mushrooms growing on the side of a fallen tree. You can smell the greenery, the soil, the moss. There's a light, powdery quality as well as a hint of spiciness, but it's an aromatic type of spice. And mixed among those mushrooms is the subtle, sweet vanilla custard note. Not overpowering or synthetic. It's delicate and suanced. 10/10" - Christine, @seeaitchsniffs

--"Absolute love for me. The opening is a personal feeling memory of walking in a hot, sunny meadow, and then as you enter the forest, the air compeltely changes to cool and humid. It's the sensation brought on by cool air, wet soil and the comforting, sweet smell of fungi. The mugwort adds the perfect herbal touch to create the cool air of the forest. As it dries down, it slowly reveals a beautiful vanilla custard. It's like a nature dreamscape. I want this perfume for sure." Wren, @Wren.Rouge

--"It opens like you are cutting portabello mushrooms. It is that sweet, fungal earthiness that I think we're all accustomed to - which I love. Amazing. No notes. And then as that starts to fade, it's less a custard made of mushrooms as it is like you've cut up the mushrooms and they're sitting and then you're like stirring some cooling pastry cream next to you. And it's not overly sweet, it stays quite light. But you get that earthiness and that vanilla custard kind of feeling coming up, and you get that muskiness to it. I think this is going to be a phenomenal perfume!" Josh, @gothfragrancebestie [pre-release review]